FAQS

FAQS- QUESTIONS ABOUT NAKED FUSION THE ARTIST’S RESIN

Is Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin non toxic?

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin is non toxic. Naked Fusion Resin  conforms to ASTM D-4236. Our resin has ZERO VOC’s which stands for ZERO volatile organic compounds. It is 100% solids and 100 % solvent free.  There are no toxic chemicals, additives or fillers added to the formula. It is a clean formula and classified non toxic.

Is Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin Food Safe for kitchen items? Is Naked Fusion Resin FDA compliant? Is Naked Fusion Resin BPA Free?

Yes, Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin once fully cured is FDA Compliant. Naked Fusion Resin is BPA Free. It is Food Safe for use on counter tops, table tops, cutting boards,resin tumblers, resin knives, resin coasters and other items in the kitchen that come in contact with food.  We recommend waiting 72 hours after pouring for full cure before use.

Is Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin UV resistant?

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin is UV resistant. Naked Fusion Resin is  formulated with UV inhibitors to dramatically resist the yellowing affects of UV exposure on resin.

How long does Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin take to cure?

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin cures hard to the touch and may be handled in 12 to 24 hours. At this point the resin is 95% cured. It will continue to cure to reach it’s maximum hardness over 72 hours.

What makes Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin formulated for artists?

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin is designed for a variety of artistic and crafting applications including resin paintings, geodes, casting, jewelry, coasters, coating artwork including acrylic pours and pouring river tables. Naked Fusion Resin has little to no odor, zero vocs and is non toxic so the air quality is better while you work. It works great with a variety of pigments and resin dyes. It is BPA free, food safe, UV resistant and has a long 45 minute working time.  It is specially formulated for artists to be easy to use, pleasant to work around and to get optimal results. It is very user friendly for first time resin users as well as seasoned artists using Naked Fusion Resin for complex elaborate projects.

What is the heat tolerance of Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin? Can I use Naked Fusion Artist’s Resin to make coasters used for hot drinks?

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin is heat resistant up to 145 degrees F. It works great for coasters, tabletops  and countertops. Most hot cups range at a lower temperature than 145 degrees F and function well on resin coasters.

Note: If using a hot pan on a table top or countertop we do recommend using a hot pad before putting a hot pan on an epoxy resin countertop or table top. Hot pans are most likely much hotter than 145 F.

Can you mix Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin by weight or only volume?

The resin and hardener are slightly different weights so for better precision we recommend only measuring by volume in graduated containers. If you measure by weight the ratio could be incorrect

What coverage can I expect?

It depends upon your application

If you are coating a surface at 1/8 inch for a self leveled surface

16 oz kit will cover approx 4 sq feet
32 oz  Kit will cover approx 8 sq feet
Gallon kit will cover approx 35 sq feet

Coverage will vary if you are using for resin art and using more volume. Also keep in mind coverage will change if you let resin drip off the edges of your artwork. You’ll have some resin waste so you will need more resin.

Tip for  figuring out the quantity needed for pouring molds: Liquid ounces of resin will be the same ratio as ounces of water so it’s an option to fill your  mold with water then pour the water into graduated cups to figure out how many ounces of  epoxy resin you will need. NOTE: If you use this method it is very IMPORTANT that your molds and graduated cups are completely dry before using them with resin. Even a drop of water could affect  the cure your resin mixture.

What are the options for coloring Naked Fusion Resin? What pigments or dyes are compatible with Naked Fusion Resin?

There are many ways to add color to Naked Fusion Resin. With Naked Fusion Resin here are some of the compatible options: Mica pigment powder, glow pigment powders, small amounts of acrylic paint, small amounts of high flow inks, universal pigments, resin dyes, alcohol inks and pigment pastes. When using liquid acrylic or inks you can not add more than 7% liquid or it can affect the curing process. Our Naked Fusion Luxxe Mica Pigments are designed and tested for compatibility with our resin. They are recommended for pigmenting Naked Fusion Resin.

When adding Naked Fusion Luxxe Mica Powders:  For more opaque color add approx. 1 gram of pigment to 4 ounces of epoxy. Pigment quantities vary based on color and desired depth of color. Whether you are aiming for more translucent color or opaque color we usually recommend after adding pigment to check the mix dripping off the stir stick when you lift it up to see how translucent the mix is. Add more pigment as needed until you it is the level of opaqueness or translucency you are looking for.

Note: Any oil or solvent based pigments are not compatible and may affect the resin’s ability to cure.

What should my room temperature be to pour my Naked Fusion Resin project? Does temperature affect the curing time?

We recommend a working temperature of 70 to 85 degrees. The warmer the temperature the faster the resin will gel, harden and cure. Higher temperatures affect and speed up the exothermic reation of the resin that generates heat to cause the resin to cure. The best results will be achieved when poured at 75 degrees. Cooler temperature extend the working time and slow down the curing process but if your working temperature is too low it could affect the resin’s ability to cure properly and self level.

Note: If the resin is stored in a cool place it is also helpful to warm the closed part A resin bottle in a warm water bath to make sure it is not too cold. If the resin is too cold the consistency will be thicker and more prone to bubbles. Once you warm Part A resin the resin will flow more easily then mix it with part B and begin your project.

What is the shelf life of the Naked Fusion Resin kits?

We reommend using resin kits that are unopened within a year. Once the kit is opened we recommend using the resin within 6 months after opening it. This may vary depending upon what temperatures you store your bottles in and if they are exposed to sunlight. We recommend storing your bottles in a dark place away from sunlight and making sure the bottles are securely tight so they are not exposed to air.

Do I have to wear a respirator when using Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin?

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin  has zero voc’s and is safe to use without a respirator. You’ll find there is virtually no smell  which offers better air quality and it is very pleasant to work around. There are no toxic chemicals additives in our resin and no fumes so a respirator is not required. We do recommend using with adequate ventilation such as an open window to allow proper air flow.

What makes Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin different from regular epoxy resins such as Table Top brands?

What makes Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin different from many table top brands is it was designed to be very user friendly for artists. With this special formula it is non toxic and has no smell which is a huge plus for many artists, crafters and people working on projects in their home because they spend a lot of hours working with resin while creating their art or finishing their project. You don’t have to deal with the fumes that come from many table top resin brands.  Our resin also has a longer working time (before it gels) so you have more time to work on your project or art piece. Extra time helps a lot when it is a creative process. Our resin is also compatible with a large variety of pigments. There are usually many chemical additives in many table top epoxy brands that we don’t have in our resin formula.

How do I clean resin off my tools?

We recommend wearing gloves when cleaning your tools. Clean off your tools with paper towels 1st wiping off all the uncured resin. Clean off any additional resin with acetone or isopropyl alcohol. Then wash with soap and water and dry thoroughly before using again. Make sure there is no residue of acetone, isopropyl alcohol, water or soap left on your tools before next use. Residue could affect the curing process of your next mix. Some people choose to use disposal mixing containers and stirring utensils because they find it easier to always use new clean containers for every mix. Then they can simply dispose of the used containers and utensils after the resin left over resin cures on them.

How do I clean resin off of my skin if any gets on my skin?

Use a cotton ball or paper towel with Isopropyl Alcohol  or rubbing alcohol to remove resin off of your skin then wash with soap and water. You can also use a baby wipe to remove resin from your skin followed by soap and water.

Is Naked Fusion Resin waterproof?

Yes, Naked Fusion Resin is waterproof and water resistant once it is fully cured. We recommend waiting 72 hours for full cure before water exposure.

What depth do you recommend pouring with Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin?

For best results we recommend pouring The Artist’s Resin in  1/8 to 1/4 inch layers. You can pour each layer 4 to 6 hours after you pour the previous layer until you get to the full depth you are looking for. Make sure the room temperature where your project is curing is 70 to 85 degrees F. It is important to torch or use a bubble removal technique on each layer to release any bubbles created from stirring.

If you are pouring it into a mold depending on the size of the mold we recommend pouring  ¼ inch depth. Then  after using a bubble removing technique wait 4 to 6  hours to pour more layers until you reach the full depth. Repeat this process for each layer. If you pour it in layers you will achieve a great finished product and it will cure hard and crystal clear.

Why pour in thin layers? What could happen if I pour resin a lot deeper than recommended?

The problems that could occur if you pour your resin too deep are:

  1. If you pour too deep you may get bubbles trapped in the deeper parts of the resin and the torch will not be able to release them. The resin mixture can also appear cloudy if pour too deep which may be harder to torch because of the depth.
  2. Resin and hardener when mixed together generate heat and when poured in thin layers the heat disperses over the surface area and the resin will cure properly. The resin when poured too deep can cause too much heat to generate and affect the curing process causing the resin to cure too quickly which can cause various problems.

How do I know how much resin I will need to fill a mold?

You can pour water into your mold to the fill point and then pour that water from the mold  into a measuring cup to see how many ounces of liquid it takes to fill the mold. That should give you a pretty close estimate of  how many ounces are needed. Make sure to thoroughly dry the mold and graduated/measuring cup before use.

How does water affect my resin project?

Make sure your surface or mold is completely dry before pouring your resin mixture. Even the slightest amount of water could affect the resin’s curing process. After 72 hours when the curing process is complete the resin is waterproof.

What do I do if my resin freezes during shipment?

Don’t worry, it will not hurt the resin. On the rare occasion that your resin freezes during shipment or if you stored it at too low of a temperature and it freezes, simply move it to a warm room to thaw. The hardener will not freeze but the resin may become crystalized from very cold temperatures. Once it is in a warm temperature long enough the crystals will melt and the resin will return to it’s liquid state. You can also place the resin in a warm water bath to speed up the process. One the resin is back in a fluid state then let it cool to room temperature before mixing with part B hardener. Once it is room temperature continue with normal instructions.

Do you offer discount or sale coupons?

We recommend following us on social media to find out about discounts and sales, we post and will notify you if we have any sales. Follow us on Instagram and Facebook for the discounts and sales. See links at the bottom of our webpage.

Do you ship internationally?

Currently we do not ship internationally but that could change in the future. We hope to be available in other countries soon.

Do you offer bulk discounts for volume orders? Do you sell wholesale?

Yes, we do offer discounts for larger orders. Please send us an email with the quantity you are interested in and we can let you know the discount options. We do sell wholesale for large quantities. Inquire about our wholesale price list by email and we can email the details.

Why do I need to use a torch or use other bubble removing technique?

When mixing Resin Part A together with Hardener Part B this stirring motion can cause bubbles to form from the air whipped into the mixture. Also if your resin is cold and not warmed to 75 degree room temperature before use, then bubbles can form and get trapped in the resin. Warming resin bottle part A in a warm water bath before use can help.  It is very important to stir your mix very thoroughly. It is expected that while stirring bubbles will form. After mixing part A and part B together you will pour your mix for your particular application. After pouring your resin it is very effective to  use a propane or butane torch to release the bubbles. You can also use a heat gun, BBQ lighter or straw method. See the bubble removing technique guide below for detailed instructions.

Tips for releasing bubbles-

1. You can use a propane torch 4 to 6 inches away from the mold in a quick waving motion. (the torch will be far enough away to release the bubbles without effecting the silicone mold with heat)

2. You can use a small barbecue lighter quickly over the surface to release bubbles.

3.You can use a heat gun very quickly and carefully over the mold but from a distance because the heat gun produces a lot of high heat. Don’t leave it too long or it could melt the silicone mold

4.You can lightly blow air on your mold at a distance through a straw that is at least 3 inches from your mold to release bubbles.(make sure to only blow out through the straw and that it is a safe distance from the resin

5.Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a lighter until it is very warm then put the warm screwdriver into the resin where the bubbles are and move it around. The heat will help release the bubbles.

Note: Which ever method you choose we recommend watching your project for the 1st hour and continually removing bubbles as needed as the surface until the gel phase is complete.

Can I use bottle pumps with epoxy resin? Do pumps work well?

We do not recommend using pumps because of  possible issues that arise from using pumps with epoxy resin. Below are problems you could run into-

  1. Although you tend to get equal dispenses, there can be air bubbles in there that does not allow for perfectly accurate dispenses….so you still need to measure separately. If you use 1 pump of A and 1 pump of B and think it’s the right ratio without re-measuring, then you could have improperly measured finished product that doesn’t cure properly. So always measure with graduated cups even with a pump.
  2. The lining of the pump often have some sort of oil or surfactant in them so you would need to be flushed with acetone or 91% isopropyl alcohol prior to use. If you don’t, the residue left in the pump will cause haziness or fisheyes.
  3. The hardener, if left to sit in the line, will eventually get crystallize in the line a bit.  So the lines should be flushed after use to make them last longer. Plus air may get into you stored hardener if let to sit between uses. In review: There are extra precautions needed when using a pump that you can avoid by simply pouring into graduated cups instead and working from closed bottles.

Is Naked Fusion Resin made for outdoor use?

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin has UV inhibitors to protect against UV rays but  is recommended and designed for Indoor use only. It will hold up outside but the color and shine could be affected by weather conditions outdoors so it isn’t recommended for outdoor use.

Should I wear a dust mask when sanding resin?

Yes, when sanding any material including wood you should wear a dust mask or respirator for fine particles, we recommend a P100 particulate respirator cartridges.  We also recommend for best results waiting until resin is fully cured to sand.

How does pot life work for mixed resin? How does working time compare to pot life?

Pot life =how long the specific quantity of mixed epoxy resin  in mixing container will stay liquid before starting to harden. The larger the quantity of resin the shorter the pot life because the exotheric heat generates more heat with larger quantities of mix. Once the resin is poured onto a surface the working time extends much longer because the heat can dissipate evenly out of the thin layer of epoxy resin. It is important to be mindful of the pot life and working time.

We recommend not letting the epoxy resin mixture sit in the mixing container too long as it will heat up and shorten the working time. Once it is poured onto your surface you have much more working time to be creative with your project.

Can I apply a epoxy resin coat over oil based stains or oil based polyurethane on wood? Or other surfaces?

No, you can’t apply resin over any oil based products. Oil based products are not compatible with epoxy resin.

The best remedy for this is to sand down as much as you can to get to a fresh surface. Stripping works too well too after sanding to get the oil based finish off if needed. Then apply a thin layer of water based polyurethane or water based stain to seal over any residue from the oil based finish. After the water based polyurethane/stains is cured then apply the resin coat. Use the torch as needed for bubbles. The resin coat will come out very nicely if you follow these steps. If the surface of the wood is prepared well with compatible products, the resin coats will go very smoothly.

Do I need to sand The Artist’s Resin between layers?

If you are pouring a additional layers within 24 to 30  hours of the previous layer it is not necessary to sand between layers. The resin with form a chemical bond with the previous layer that is still in the process of curing.  If your layer of resin has been sitting for more than 24 to 30 hours it is a good idea to sand lightly between layers to scuff the surface for a better bond. After sanding wipe the sanding dust off with acetone on a soft cloth before pouring the next layer.

FAQS-TROUBLESHOOTING

What if my resin cures sticky or tacky?

On the rare occasion that your resin cures sticky it is usually caused by an improper ratio of Part A and Part B or your Part A and Part B was not fully mixed together. When there is more hardener Part B than Part A resin this can cause the mix to dry sticky. To fix your project we recommend mixing a new resin and hardener mix. Follow the proper mixing instructions below and recoat the surface. The properly mixed resin and hardener will cause the sticky resin layer to cure properly.  Another thing to keep in mind when mixing your resin is don’t mix less than 2 ounces at a time. When mixing very small quantities the ratio can be off and cause the resin to remain sticky. So as a general rule mix at least 2 ounces(1 ounce resin and ounce hardener) or more at a time and be precise.

Mixing Instructions for best results: First place the Resin Part A bottle with the lid tightly fastened in a hot water bath to warm up the resin.Make sure your resin bottle is completely dried off before mixing. You don’t want to get any water in the mix because that could prevent it from curing.

Then take graduated cups and measure equal parts of Part A and Part B. It’s best to add hardener 1st then add the resin because the resin consistency is thicker. Mix the cup of Part A and Part B together. Stir for 4 minutes making sure to scrape all the edges and base of the cup to make sure everything is stirred into the mix. Transfer your mixed Part A and Part B into a separate cup to make sure the bottom of the original cup doesn’t have any unmixed areas. Then it is ready to pour.

What if my resin cures cloudy or with bubbles? What causes this to happen?

There are a few reasons why part of the resin could cure cloudy or have bubbles.

1.If the resin is too cool when you pour it. If it is stored in a cooler spot and not properly warmed up to room temperature of 70+ degrees then it can become cloudy or have more bubbles when pouring. After pouring if you torch the surface enough before it cures it will warm those areas then the cloudiness will usually go away and the bubbles will be released. Wave the torch 4 to 6 inches from the surface. (Another tip is  before you start  to warm the closed part A  resin bottle in a warm water bath before mixing it with part B to warm it back up. You will still need to apply the torch but it helps starting with warmer resin)

2. If the resin is poured too deep then the surface can become cloudy because bubbles can get trapped in the deeper part and the torch won’t be able to reach them.

3. If areas of the mixture weren’t mixed thoroughly they can sometimes become cloudy or not cure properly.

These are things to keep in mind for the future to avoid it happening.

How do I fix cloudy resin or resin with bubbles?

The best way to fix your project if it cured with bubbles or is cloudy is to lightly sand out the area of concern. Wipe any dust off with acetone and make sure the surface is fully dry. Apply another thin coat to the area following the proper mixing instructions below.

Mixing Instructions for best results: First place the Resin Part A bottle with the lid tightly fastened in a hot water bath to warm up the resin.Make sure your resin bottle is completely dried off before mixing. You don’t want to get any water in the mix because that could prevent it from curing.

Then take graduated cups and measure equal parts of part A and part B. It’s best to add hardener 1st then add the resin because the resin consistency is thicker. Mix the cup of part B and part A together. Stir for 4 minutes making sure to scrape all the edges and base of the cup to make sure everything is stirred into the mix. Transfer your mixed part A and B into a separate cup to make sure the bottom of the original cup doesn’t have any unmixed areas. Then it is ready to pour.

Torch or use your bubble removal technique of choice. See bubble removing techniques in instructions for more details.

What if my resin cures and spots of the resin are still runny or soupy?

Soupy or runny resin is usually caused by areas of unmixed or improperly mixed resin or hardener. To save the project scrap off all of the runny resin with a tool and dispose of it. Then mix a properly mixed Resin part A and hardener part B and recoat. This will cause the 1st layer to properly cure. Follow the mixing instructions below for proper mixing.

Mixing Instructions for best results: First place the Resin Part A bottle with the lid tightly fastened in a hot water bath to warm up the resin.Make sure your resin bottle is completely dried off before mixing. You don’t want to get any water in the mix because that could prevent it from curing.

Then take graduated cups and measure equal parts of part A and part B. It’s best to add hardener 1st then add the resin because the resin consistency is thicker. Mix the cup of part B and part A together. Stir for 4 minutes making sure to scrape all the edges and base of the cup to make sure everything is stirred into the mix. Transfer your mixed part A and B into a separate cup to make sure the bottom of the original cup doesn’t have any unmixed areas. Then it is ready to pour.

Torch or use your bubble removal technique of choice. See bubble removing techniques in instructions for more details.

What if my resin gets too hot in the container? How does resin pot life work?

The resin when mixed with the hardener cures by a chemical reaction that generates heat. If you leave a larger quantity of resin in the mixing container for too long, it will build up excessive heat.  The larger the quantity of resin mixture the quicker the heat will build in a container. We recommend pouring the resin onto your surface or into your mold soon after mixing to extend the working time. Once it is poured out the heat will disperse and extend the working time because the heat in the resin mixture is dispersed over a larger surface area.  If  you leave the resin mixture in the container too long your mixing container will get too hot and the resin will start to gel or clump. You will have discard the resin and start with a fresh mix. We highly recommend to be mindful of this and pour out the resin mix long before it gets to this stage and starts producing heat.

This is referred to as pot life ( the pot life= amount of time the mix has before the resin heats up in a mixing container)  The pot life varies depending upon the quantity of resin, the larger the quantity the shorter the pot life.

What if the curing resin develops an oil slick film?

An oil film could form if you are working in too high of humidity. If this should occur wipe off, lightly sand and repour when the humidity is under 60 %. Use dehumidifier in rainy season if needed.

What do I do if I get dust on my project between layers?

We would recommend using acetone on a soft cloth to wipe off the surface of your project if it has been exposed to a lot of dust and there is dust build up on the layer you are covering. Ideally you would work in a work space with no dust but should this occur we recommend using acetone because it works better than water.  Acetone evaporates quickly and water can affect the surface if it is not completely dry. It is very important to make sure your surface is completely dry before pouring additional layers.

If you get dust or bugs that cures into the surface of a layer of resin then sand your surface until dust is not visible and follow the instructions above.

Do you recommend wiping project with acetone between layers?

As far as wiping with acetone between layers it is not necessary with our resin. The only reason we would recommend using acetone is if your project has been exposed to a lot of dust and there is dust build up on the layer you are covering. Ideally you would work in a work space with no dust but should this occur we recommend using acetone because it works better than water.  Acetone evaporates quickly and water can affect the surface if it is not completely dry.