CLICK ON INSTRUCTIONS BELOW TO VIEW FOR EACH APPLICATION

COATING INSTRUCTIONS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Coating

  1. For Coating do a small scale test on a similar surface the surface you are working on to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results.
  2. It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
  3. If you are coating, make sure your project is level before you start.
  4. Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
  5. Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
  6. Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
  7. Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
  8. Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
  9. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together. Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
  10. If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque.
  11. Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project. Be sure to scrape all of the mixture out into the new container.
  12. From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
  13. Pour your epoxy resin evenly over your project. Use a spreader to spread the material out as even as possible. The resin will self level, so the main objective is to have it spread as even as you can. Make sure there is material on the edges.
  14. If you are using epoxy with color in it, apply it to your surface artistically being mindful of your working time. Make sure there is coverage on all edges.
  15. If your resin forms bubbles, lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface.  Keep torch 6 to 10 inches above epoxy resin.
  16. Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. Keep the temperature in a 75 to 80 degrees during curing process. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
  17. If you are covering a porous surface you may need to do a second coat to get the desired glass finish.

CASTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR JEWELRY AND SMALL MOLDS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Casting jewelry and small molds

  1. For Casting do a small scale test in a mold to become familiar with the product to make sure your project achieves your desired results.
  2. It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F.  We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened.  Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
  3. If you are casting, make sure your molds are in a level stable position and you have applied your desired release agent to your mold. Silicone oil is a recommended release agent.
  4. Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
  5. Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
  6. Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
  7. Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
  8. Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
  9. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrap the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together.
  10. If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque.
  11. Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project.
  12. From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
  13. Pour your epoxy resin into your mold. The depth you can pour up to is 1/4 inch which might required multiple pours to reach your desired depth.  We recommend pouring 1/8 to 1/4 inch then applying a bubble release technique (see details below) then let the resin cure for 4 to 5 hours before pouring the next layer. Repeat the process until you reach the desired depth. Note* Make sure it is upright and level during the entire process.
  14. Tips for releasing bubbles:  1. You can lightly blow air on your mold at a distance through a straw that is at least 3 inches from your mold to release bubbles.(make sure to only blow out through the straw and that it is a safe distance from the resin) 2. You can use a propane torch 4 to 6 inches away from the mold in a quick waving motion. (the torch will be far enough away to release the bubbles without effecting the silicone mold with heat)  3. You can use a small barbecue lighter quickly over the surface to release bubbles. 4.You can use a heat gun very quickly and carefully over the mold but from a distance because the heat gun produces a lot of high heat. Don’t leave it too long or it could melt the silicone mold. 4.Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a lighter until it is very warm then put the warm screwdriver into the resin where the bubbles are and move it around. The heat will help release the bubbles.
  15. Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
  16. You should be able to remove your coaster from the mold within 24 hours.

RESIN ART INSTRUCTIONS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Resin Art

  1. For Resin Art do a small scale test on a similar surface the surface you are working on to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results.
  2. It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Dry your container off before pouring your resin so no water drips into your resin.  Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
  3. For your resin painting, make sure your project is level before you start. There are several approaches on the strategy for the edges of your painting. Some artists like to let the color run down the edges. Some artists use cradled art boards. Some artists tape the sides to hold the resin on the face of the painting. It is a personal preference.  It also depends on the way you want your finished piece to look.  We recommend choosing one of those options and having a plan for any excess material that may drip off the sides.
  4. Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
  5. Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
  6. Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
  7. Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
  8. Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
  9. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together.  Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
  10. If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Pour your fully mixed epoxy into the number of cups you will be adding different colors to. You must be mindful of the time during this process because the epoxy will start setting if you take too long. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque. Put in more pigment if you want it opaque. Add less pigment if you want it to be translucent.  Remember that your mixing time is also a part of your working time when the Part B is added. So, be prepared ahead of time with all of your colors and color ratios.
  11. From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
  12. Artistically pour your colors onto your art board, canvas or wood. Make sure you have coverage on your entire surface. The epoxy will self level so you don’t have to worry about making it perfectly level.
  13. If your resin forms bubbles lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Keep torch 6 to 10 inches above epoxy resin.
  14. If your edges are taped wait until resin is curing and getting tacky to remove your tape.
  15. Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.

CASTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR COASTERS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Coasters

  1. For Casting coasters, do a small scale test in a mold to become familiar with the product to make sure your project achieves your desired results.
  2. It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened.  Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
  3. If you are casting, make sure your molds are in a level stable position and you have applied your desired release agent to your mold. Silicone oil is a recommended release agent.
  4. Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
  5. Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
  6. Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger    graduated containers.
  7. Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
  8. Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
  9. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrap the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together.
  10. If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque. If you are adding alcohol ink add it when the resin it poured in the mold to your desired results.
  11. Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project.
  12. From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
  13. Pour your epoxy resin into your mold. The depth you can pour up to is 1/4 inch which might required multiple pours to reach your desired depth.  We recommend pouring 1/8 to 1/4 inch then applying a bubble release technique (see details below) then let the resin cure for 4 to 5 hours before pouring the next layer. Repeat the process until you reach the desired depth. Note* Make sure it is upright and level during the entire process.
  14. Tips for releasing bubbles:  1. You can lightly blow air on your mold at a distance through a straw that is at least 3 inches from your mold to release bubbles.(make sure to only blow out through the straw and that it is a safe distance from the resin) 2. You can use a propane torch 4 to 6 inches away from the mold in a quick waving motion. (the torch will be far enough away to release the bubbles without effecting the silicone mold with heat)  3. You can use a small barbecue lighter quickly over the surface to release bubbles. 4.You can use a heat gun very quickly and carefully over the mold but from a distance because the heat gun produces a lot of high heat. Don’t leave it too long or it could melt the silicone mold. 4.Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a lighter until it is very warm then put the warm screwdriver into the resin where the bubbles are and move it around. The heat will help release the bubbles.
  15. Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
  16. You should be able to remove your coaster from the mold within 24 hours.

COATING PHOTOGRAPHY

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Coating Photography

  1. For Coating do a small scale test on a similar surface the surface you are working on to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results.
  2. It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
  3. If you are coating, make sure your project is level before you start.
  4. Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
  5. Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
  6. Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
  7. Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
  8. Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
  9. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together. Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
  10. If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque.
  11. Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project. Be sure to scrape all of the mixture out into the new container.
  12. From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
  13. Pour your epoxy resin evenly over your project. Use an epoxy spreader to spread the material out as even as possible. The resin will self level, so the main objective is to have it spread as even as you can. Make sure there is material on the edges.
  14. If you are using epoxy with color in it, apply it to your surface artistically being mindful of your working time. Make sure there is coverage on all edges.
  15. If your resin forms bubbles lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Keep torch 6 to 10 inches above epoxy resin.
  16. Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. Keep the temperature in a 75 to 80 degrees during curing process. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
  17. If you are covering a porous surface you may need to do a second coat to get the desired glass finish.

COATING ARTWORK AND ACRYLIC POURS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Coating Art and Acrylic pours

  1. For Coating do a small scale test on a similar surface the surface you are working on to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results. Check the artwork that you will be coating with resin to make sure that the paint and surface is completely dry and any paint is fully cured. Clean any dust off of the surface before you start.
  2. It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
  3. If you are coating, make sure your project is level before you start.
  4. Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
  5. Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
  6. Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
  7. Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
  8. Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
  9. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together. Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
  10. Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project. Be sure to scrape all of the mixture out into the new container.
  11. From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
  12. Pour your epoxy resin evenly over your project. Use an epoxy spreader to spread the material out as even as possible. The resin will self level, so the main objective is to have it spread as even as you can. Make sure there is material on the edges.
  13. If your resin forms bubbles lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. A heat gun may also be used instead of a torch. Keep torch 6 to 10 inches above epoxy resin.
  14. Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. Keep the temperature in a 75 to 80 degrees during curing process. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
  15. If you are covering a porous surface such as wood you may need to do a second coat to get the desired glass finish.

CASTING EPOXY INTO RIVER TABLES

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Casting Live Edge Water Tables

  1. For Casting do a small scale test on the wood you will be working with to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results. Working with wood, we recommend a thin coat is applied over the surface 1st to seal the wood. The air in the wood can create bubbles when it isn’t sealed first with a thin coat of resin.
  2. It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened.  Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
  3. Keep in mind that the resin can be cast to 1/4 inch layers, so it might take multiple pours to achieve your depth.
  4. Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
  5. Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
  6. Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger    graduated containers.
  7. Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
  8. Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
  9. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrap the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together.
  10. If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque.
  11. Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project.
  12. From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
  13. Pour your epoxy resin into your river table. The depth you can pour up to is 1/4 inch which might required multiple pours to reach your desired depth. We recommend pouring 1/8 to 1/4 inch then applying a bubble release technique (see details below) then let the resin cure for 4 to 5 hours before pouring the next layer. Repeat the process until you reach the desired depth. If your resin forms bubbles lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Keep torch 4 to 6 inches above epoxy resin. Note: Make sure to torch each layer after pouring for best results.
  14. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.

CLICK BELOW FOR MATERIAL LISTS FOR

MATERIALS FOR ALL TYPES OF COATING

MATERIALS FOR COATING

  • The Naked Fusion Resin epoxy resin and hardener
  • Latex gloves
  • Graduated cups or containers depending on size of your project
    Propane torch
    Wooden popsicle stick for stirring
  • An epoxy spreader
    Plastic drop to cover and protect your work space
  • (Optional) box to cover project to protect from dust while it is curing

MATERIALS FOR CASTING, COASTERS AND JEWELRY

MATERIALS FOR CASTING AND JEWELRY

  • The Naked Fusion Resin epoxy resin and hardener
  • Resin mold or jewelry mold (preferably silicone)
  • Silicone oil to coat the mold for easy release and q-tip swab for application
  • Latex gloves
  • Powdered mica pigments (if tinting the resin)
  • Accessories for embedding in resin- beads, colored  cracked glass, wood, glitter, dries flowers, leaves (if enbedding objects in casting)
  • One oz graduated cups or 8 oz graduated cups depending on size of your project
    Blow dryer ( instead of a torch may melt the silicon)
    Wooden popsicle stick for stirring
    Toothpicks (for detail work)
    Shoebox or plastic bin (to cover molds as they harden)
  • Necklace screw eye pins ( if making pendants for necklaces)
    Adhesive if making rings
  • Plastic drop to cover and protect your work space

MATERIALS FOR RESIN ART

MATERIALS FOR RESIN ART

  • The Naked Fusion Resin epoxy resin and hardener
  • Canvas, wooden board or cradle board
  • Painters blue tape
    Latex gloves
  • Graduated cups  or containers depending on size of your project
  • Propane torch
    Wooden popsicle stick  or stir stick for stirring
  • Mica pigments for tinting the resin
    Plastic spoons
    Plastic drop to cover and protect your work space
  • Accessories for embedding in resin- beads, stones, colored cracked glass, glitter
  • (Optional) box to cover project to protect from dust while it is curing