THE ARTIST’S RESIN AND CRAFTER’S RESIN INSTRUCTIONS

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ARTIST’S RESIN AND THE CRAFTER’S RESIN

CLICK ON INSTRUCTIONS BELOW FOR EACH APPLICATION

COATING INSTRUCTIONS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Coating

When Coating do a small scale test on a similar surface the surface you are working on to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results.
It is important to store your resin in room temperature above 65 degrees and make sure your working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your Part A Resin bottle by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will thin the viscosity and make the resin easier to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
If you are coating, make sure your project is level before you start.
Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
Tip: Add up to 5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
Stir thoroughly for 3 to 5 minutes. More important then the time you stir is to make sure all the resin and hardener is well combined. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together. Be thorough making sure all part of the cup are combined and well stirred. Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque.
Optional-recommended: Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project. Be sure to scrape all of the mixture out into the new container.
From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
Pour your epoxy resin evenly over your project. Use a spreader to spread the material out as even as possible. The resin will self level, so the main objective is to have it spread as even as you can. Make sure there is material on the edges.
If you are using epoxy with color in it, apply it to your surface artistically being mindful of your working time. Make sure there is coverage on all edges.
If your resin forms bubbles, lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Keep torch 4 to 6 inches above epoxy resin.
Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. Keep the temperature in a 75 to 80 degrees during curing process. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
If you are covering a porous surface you may need to do a second coat to get the desired glass finish.

Note: Coating over oil based stains, oil based polyurethanes or oil based paints will not work. Epoxy Resin is not compatible with oil based products. You could have adhesion problems. Please read FAQs to find out how to properly prepare your surface in this situation.

CASTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR JEWELRY AND SMALL MOLDS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Casting Jewelry and Small Molds

For Casting do a small scale test in a mold to become familiar with the product to make sure your project achieves your desired results.
It is important to store your resin in room temperature above 65 F and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
If you are casting, make sure your molds are in a level stable position and you have applied your desired release agent to your mold. Silicone oil or silicone mold release spray are recommended release agent.
Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
Tip: Add up to 5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
Stir thoroughly for 3 to 5 minutes. More important then the time you stir is to make sure all the resin and hardener is well combined. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together. Be thorough making sure all part of the cup are combined and well stirred. Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque.
Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project.
From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
Pour your epoxy resin into your mold. The depth you can pour up to is 1/4 inch which might required multiple pours to reach your desired depth. We recommend pouring 1/8 to 1/4 inch then applying a bubble release technique (see details below) then let the resin cure for 4 to 5 hours before pouring the next layer. Repeat the process until you reach the desired depth. Note* Make sure it is upright and level during the entire process.
Tips for releasing bubbles: 1. You can lightly blow air on your mold at a distance through a straw that is at least 3 inches from your mold to release bubbles.(make sure to only blow out through the straw and that it is a safe distance from the resin) 2. You can use a propane torch 4 to 6 inches away from the mold in a quick waving motion. (the torch will be far enough away to release the bubbles without effecting the silicone mold with heat) 3. You can use a small barbecue lighter quickly over the surface to release bubbles. 4.You can use a heat gun very quickly and carefully over the mold but from a distance because the heat gun produces a lot of high heat. Don’t leave it too long or it could melt the silicone mold. 4.Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a lighter until it is very warm then put the warm screwdriver into the resin where the bubbles are and move it around. The heat will help release the bubbles.
Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
You should be able to remove your coaster from the mold within 24 hours.

RESIN ART INSTRUCTIONS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Resin Art

For Resin Art do a small scale test on a similar surface the surface you are working on to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results.
It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Dry your container off before pouring your resin so no water drips into your resin. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
For your resin painting, make sure your project is level before you start. There are several approaches on the strategy for the edges of your painting. Some artists like to let the color run down the edges. Some artists use cradled art boards. Some artists tape the sides to hold the resin on the face of the painting. It is a personal preference. It also depends on the way you want your finished piece to look. We recommend choosing one of those options and having a plan for any excess material that may drip off the sides.
Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together. Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Pour your fully mixed epoxy into the number of cups you will be adding different colors to. You must be mindful of the time during this process because the epoxy will start setting if you take too long. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque. Put in more pigment if you want it opaque. Add less pigment if you want it to be translucent. Remember that your mixing time is also a part of your working time when the Part B is added. So, be prepared ahead of time with all of your colors and color ratios.
From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
Artistically pour your colors onto your art board, canvas or wood. Make sure you have coverage on your entire surface. The epoxy will self level so you don’t have to worry about making it perfectly level.
If your resin forms bubbles lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Keep torch 6 to 10 inches above epoxy resin.
If your edges are taped wait until resin is curing and getting tacky to remove your tape.
Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.

CASTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR COASTERS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Coasters

For Casting coasters, do a small scale test in a mold to become familiar with the product to make sure your project achieves your desired results.
It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
If you are casting, make sure your molds are in a level stable position and you have applied your desired release agent to your mold. Silicone oil is a recommended release agent.
Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrap the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together.
If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque. If you are adding alcohol ink add it when the resin it poured in the mold to your desired results.
Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project.
From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
Pour your epoxy resin into your mold. The depth you can pour up to is 1/4 inch which might required multiple pours to reach your desired depth. We recommend pouring 1/8 to 1/4 inch then applying a bubble release technique (see details below) then let the resin cure for 4 to 5 hours before pouring the next layer. Repeat the process until you reach the desired depth. Note* Make sure it is upright and level during the entire process.
Tips for releasing bubbles: 1. You can lightly blow air on your mold at a distance through a straw that is at least 3 inches from your mold to release bubbles.(make sure to only blow out through the straw and that it is a safe distance from the resin) 2. You can use a propane torch 4 to 6 inches away from the mold in a quick waving motion. (the torch will be far enough away to release the bubbles without effecting the silicone mold with heat) 3. You can use a small barbecue lighter quickly over the surface to release bubbles. 4.You can use a heat gun very quickly and carefully over the mold but from a distance because the heat gun produces a lot of high heat. Don’t leave it too long or it could melt the silicone mold. 4.Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a lighter until it is very warm then put the warm screwdriver into the resin where the bubbles are and move it around. The heat will help release the bubbles.
Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
You should be able to remove your coaster from the mold within 24 hours.

COATING PHOTOGRAPHY

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Coating Photography

For Coating do a small scale test on a similar surface the surface you are working on to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results.
It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
If you are coating, make sure your project is level before you start.
Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together. Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque.
Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project. Be sure to scrape all of the mixture out into the new container.
From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
Pour your epoxy resin evenly over your project. Use an epoxy spreader to spread the material out as even as possible. The resin will self level, so the main objective is to have it spread as even as you can. Make sure there is material on the edges.
If you are using epoxy with color in it, apply it to your surface artistically being mindful of your working time. Make sure there is coverage on all edges.
If your resin forms bubbles lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Keep torch 6 to 10 inches above epoxy resin.
Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. Keep the temperature in a 75 to 80 degrees during curing process. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
If you are covering a porous surface you may need to do a second coat to get the desired glass finish.

COATING ARTWORK AND ACRYLIC POURS

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Coating Art and Acrylic pours

For Coating do a small scale test on a similar surface the surface you are working on to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results. Check the artwork that you will be coating with resin to make sure that the paint and surface is completely dry and any paint is fully cured. Clean any dust off of the surface before you start.
It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
If you are coating, make sure your project is level before you start.
Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrape the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together. Working time starts when add your Part B to Your Part A.
Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project. Be sure to scrape all of the mixture out into the new container.
From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
Pour your epoxy resin evenly over your project. Use an epoxy spreader to spread the material out as even as possible. The resin will self level, so the main objective is to have it spread as even as you can. Make sure there is material on the edges.
If your resin forms bubbles lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. A heat gun may also be used instead of a torch. Keep torch 6 to 10 inches above epoxy resin.
Cover your project to protect against dust or particles falling into your resin while it is curing. Keep the temperature in a 75 to 80 degrees during curing process. It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.
If you are covering a porous surface such as wood you may need to do a second coat to get the desired glass finish.

CASTING EPOXY INTO RIVER TABLES

Naked Fusion Resin Instructions for Casting Live Edge Water Tables

For Casting do a small scale test on the wood you will be working with to become familiar with the product and make sure your project achieves your desired results. Working with wood, we recommend a thin coat is applied over the surface 1^st to seal the wood. The air in the wood can create bubbles when it isn’t sealed first with a thin coat of resin.
It is important to store your resin in room temperature and working temperature is over 70 F. We recommend heating up your resin by putting the entire bottle in a bucket or container of warm water with lid securely tightened. Heat the resin only, not the hardener. It will make it easy to stir and prevent extra bubbles.
Keep in mind that the resin can be cast to 1/4 inch layers, so it might take multiple pours to achieve your depth.
Cover and protect all surfaces on and around your work area with plastic sheeting before you begin. And make sure you are in a dust free hair free work zone.
Wear hand and eye protection as a precaution when working with this product.
Mix exactly one to one ratio of resin and hardener. We recommend using graduated cups or larger graduated containers.
Tip: Do NOT add more hardener than resin, it will cause the finished coating to remain tacky.
Tip: Add up to .5 % more Resin than hardener for a harder cured finish.
Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes. Make sure you scrap the edges and the bottom of your container as you mix to be certain that all Part A and Part B mix together.
If you are adding color to the epoxy, now is the time. Add mica pigments and desired colors to your epoxy mix and stir in thoroughly. Check the translucency on your stirring tool by lifting it out of the pigmented resin to see if you have added enough pigment to achieve the depth of color(s) that you are looking for. That is always a good test to see if your colors will come out translucent or opaque.
Transfer epoxy into a new container to make sure there is no unmixed material going into your project.
From the time the Part B is added to Part A you have 45 minutes working time. If you are in higher temperatures over 80 degrees, you might have a shorter time window before the epoxy resin starts its curing process. So, always be mindful of how much time you have to work with to finish your project.
Pour your epoxy resin into your river table. The depth you can pour up to is 1/4 inch which might required multiple pours to reach your desired depth. We recommend pouring 1/8 to 1/4 inch then applying a bubble release technique (see details below) then let the resin cure for 4 to 5 hours before pouring the next layer. Repeat the process until you reach the desired depth. If your resin forms bubbles lightly torch the surface until the bubbles are gone. Don’t hold the torch to long in any area, it is a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Keep torch 4 to 6 inches above epoxy resin. Note: Make sure to torch each layer after pouring for best results.
It will harden to touch in 24 hours and full cure in 72 hours.

Note: Coating over oil based stains, oil based polyurethanes or oil based paints will not work. Epoxy resin is not compatible with oil based products. You could have adhesion problems. Please read FAQs to find out how to properly prepare your surface in this situation.

CLICK BELOW FOR MATERIAL LISTS FOR

MATERIALS FOR ALL TYPES OF COATING

MATERIALS FOR COATING

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin Epoxy Resin and Hardener
Latex or Nitrile Gloves
Graduated cups or graduated containers depending on size of your project
Propane torch or Heat Gun for bubble removal
Wooden popsicle stick orplastic forks or knives for stirring
An Epoxy Spreader- notched preferably
Plastic drop to cover and protect your work space
(Optional) Box or plastic tote to cover project to protect from dust while it is curing

MATERIALS FOR CASTING, COASTERS AND JEWELRY

MATERIALS FOR CASTING AND JEWELRY

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin Epoxy Resin and Hardener
Resin mold or jewelry mold (preferably silicone)
Silicone oil or mold release spray to coat the mold for easy release and q-tip swab for application
Latex or Nitrile Gloves
Powdered Mica Pigments or Resin Tints (if tinting the resin) See Compatible Pigments in tips and tricks
Accessories for embedding in resin- beads, colored cracked glass, wood, glitter, dries flowers, leaves (if enbedding objects in casting)
One oz graduated cups or 8 oz graduated cups depending on size of your project
Heat Gun, Torch, BBQ Lighter or Straws for bubble removal (See Tips to remove bubbles in tips and tricks to figure out the best method for you depending upon your size of mold)
Wooden popsicle sticks or plastic knives or spoons for stirring
Toothpicks (for detail work)
Box or plastic bin (to cover molds as they harden)
Necklace screw eye pins ( if making pendants for necklaces)
Adhesive if making rings
Plastic drop to cover and protect your work space

MATERIALS FOR RESIN ART

MATERIALS FOR RESIN ART

Naked Fusion The Artist’s Resin Epoxy Resin and Hardener
Canvas, Wooden Board or Cradle Board
Painter’s Blue Tape
Latex or Nitrile Gloves
Graduated plastic cups or graduated containers depending on size of your project
Propane Torch or Heat Gun
Wooden popsicle stick or plastic knives or spoons for stirring
Mica pigments or various other pigments for tinting the resin (See compatible pigment options section on tips for more detail of options to color your resin)
Plastic drop to cover and protect your work space
Accessories for embedding in resin- beads, stones, colored cracked glass, glitter
(Optional) Box or plastic tote to cover project to protect from dust while it is curing

CLICK BELOW FOR TIPS AND TRICKS

HOW TO ADD COLOR TO YOUR NAKED FUSION RESIN:COMPATIBLE PIGMENT OPTIONS

There are many ways to add color to Naked Fusion Resin. With Naked Fusion Resin here are some of the compatible options: Mica pigment powder, glow pigment powders, small amounts of acrylic paint, liquid acrylic paint, small amounts of high flow acrylic a paints, universal pigments, resin dyes, alcohol inks and pigment pastes. When using liquid acrylic or inks you can not add more than 7% liquid or it can affect the curing process. Our Naked Fusion Luxxe Mica Pigments are designed and tested for compatibility with our resin. They are highly recommended for adding color to Naked Fusion Resin.

When adding Naked Fusion Luxxe Mica Powders: For more opaque color add approx. 1 gram of pigment to 4 ounces of epoxy. Pigment quantities vary based on color and desired depth of color. Whether you are aiming for more translucent color or opaque color we usually recommend after adding pigment to check the resin dripping off the stir stick when you lift it up to see how translucent the mix is. Add more pigment as needed until you it is the level of opaqueness or translucency you are looking for.

Note: Any oil or solvent based pigments are not compatible and may affect the resins ability to cure.

HOW TO CAST IN LAYERS

After thoroughly mixing the resin and hardener then pour your epoxy resin into your mold at the recommended depth of 1/8 to 1/4 inch. At this depth it may require multiple pours to reach your desired depth. We recommend pouring each layer at 1/8 to 1/4 inch then applying a bubble release technique (see details below) then let the resin cure for 4 to 5 hours before pouring the next layer.

Repeat the process and the bubble removing technique on each layer until you reach the desired depth. This method may require patience but will achieve a gorgeous crystal clear finish. Each layer will bond to the previous layer and will have a seamless appearance. It will also achieve perfect casting layers when adding pigments. We recommend adding the same amount of pigment on each layer to get a seamless color consistency unless you are wanting the colors to vary per layer. Make sure it is upright and level during the entire process.

Tips for Releasing Bubbles-Various Bubble Removing Techniques

1. You can use a propane torch 4 to 6 inches away from the mold in a quick waving motion. (the torch will be far enough away to release the bubbles without effecting the silicone mold with heat)

2. You can use a small barbecue lighter quickly over the surface to release bubbles.

3.You can use a heat gun very quickly and carefully over the mold but from a distance because the heat gun produces a lot of high heat. Don’t leave it too long or it could melt the silicone mold.

4. You can lightly blow air on your mold at a distance through a straw that is at least 3 inches from your mold to release bubbles.(make sure to only blow out through the straw and that it is a safe distance from the resin)

5.Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a lighter until it is very warm then put the warm screwdriver into the resin where the bubbles are and move it around. The heat will help release the bubbles.

Note: It’s a good idea to keep on eye on your project and use the bubble removing technique for up to an hour after pouring in case any additional bubbles surface.

TIPS FOR RELEASING BUBBLES-VARIOUS BUBBLE REMOVING TECHNIQUES

Things to keep in mind. Make sure your room temperature is 70 to 85 degrees. Make sure your resin is not cold. Cold resin can increase the thickness of the resin and cause bubbles. We recommend heating the tightly closed Part A Resin bottle in a warm water bath before mixing it with Part B Hardener. Dry bottle thoroughly before mixing so not water is present. You do not want water falling into your resin mixture as it could affect the resin’s curing ability. Now you are ready to mix

Tips for Releasing Bubbles-Various Bubble Removing Techniques

1. You can use a propane torch 4 to 6 inches away from the mold in a quick waving motion. (the torch will be far enough away to release the bubbles without effecting the silicone mold with heat)

2. You can use a small barbecue lighter quickly over the surface to release bubbles.

3.You can use a heat gun very quickly and carefully over the mold but from a distance because the heat gun produces a lot of high heat. Don’t leave it too long or it could melt the silicone mold.

4. You can lightly blow air on your mold at a distance through a straw that is at least 3 inches from your mold to release bubbles.(make sure to only blow out through the straw and that it is a safe distance from the resin)

5.Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a lighter until it is very warm then put the warm screwdriver into the resin where the bubbles are and move it around. The heat will help release the bubbles.

Note: It’s a good idea to keep on eye on your project and use the bubble removing technique for up to an hour after pouring in case any additional bubbles surface.

BEST WAY TO MIX PART A AND PART B TOGETHER

What the best way to mix Resin A and Hardener B together to make sure they are properly mixed?

For best results 1^st place the Resin Part A bottle (Part A only) with the lid tightly fastened in a hot water bath to warm up the resin for 15 minutes prior to mixing. ( Hot tap water is sufficient). When you warm the resin it will become much more fluid, easier to mix and easier to remove bubbles with a torch or heat gun. Thoroughly dry off the resin bottle so no water is present. Then take graduated cups and measure equal parts of part A and part B. It’s best to add hardener 1^st then add the resin because the resin consistency is thicker. Mix the cup of part A and part B together. When mixing The Artist’s Resin it is not about the length of time but that it is fully mixed and combined with attention to detail. We recommend folding the bottom up and pushing the top down while scraping all the edges and bottom of the container to make sure every part of the mix is well combined. Stir for 4 or more minutes making sure to scrape all the edges and base of the cup to make sure everything is stirred into the mix. Transfer your mixed part A and B into a separate cup to make sure the bottom of the original cup doesn’t have any unmixed areas. Then it is ready to pour.

It is normal for air to get into the mix from stirring. It is more important to stir enough so that it is well mixed and not be concerned about the bubbles from stirring. They will release easily with a torch or heat gun when the mix is poured onto your project.

Another thing to keep in mind: When mixing your resin don’t mix less than 2 ounces at a time. When mixing very small quantities the ratio can be off and cause the resin to remain sticky. So as a general rule mix at least 2 ounces (1 ounce resin and ounce hardener) or more at a time and be precise.

Note: We do not recommend measuring by weight because the resin and hardener don’t have the same weight so the 1 to 1 ratio could be inaccurate. Always measure by volume.

DIFFERENT OPTIONS TO FINISH EDGES ON A RESIN PAINTINGS, GEODES OR OTHER SURFACES

What are the options for finishing edges on a resin painting, geode or resin coating over art?

There are several ways to finish your edges of a painting.

Option 1: Tape the sides and bottom of your wood panel or canvas with blue painter’s masking tape or green frogger delicate surface tape. Press the edges down hard with a Popsicle stick applying hard pressure to make sure the edges are well sealed. There are two options at this point.

Let the resin drip down the side the taped edges while you are working with your panel or canvas elevated by cups or stand of some sort.
Or damming the edges by placing additional tape half way between the sides and hovering over top of panel. So half of the tape is on the edge of the canvas or panel side and half above the canvas so it will catch the resin mix before it drips down the sides. If you choose option b then you will need to remove the upper piece of damming tape in about 4 to 6 hours after pouring when the resin is still soft and sticky. You may have a small amount of resin drip on the tape on the sides while it continues to cure but you will have a nice domed edge.
Whether you used the damming method or let the resin drip down the sides you will remove all the tape the following day from the sides and back of the panel or canvas. Tip: If the resin is stuck on the tape in any area you use a heat gun or a blow dryer on a hot setting to slightly soften the resin and the tape with come off much easier. Optional: Some people like to paint the edges with a color to make them look more finished and some people prefer to leave the wood or canvas look.

How do I get rid of drips?

There are two ways to get rid of drips.

You can use a heat gun to warm up the cured resin then scrap the drips with a putty trowel
The second way to get rid of drips is to sand them down, when sanding any substance we recommend using a dust mask or dust respirator to protect from inhaling any fine particles.

HOW TO PREARE FOR COATING ACRYLIC POURS- HOW TO REMOVE SILICONE OIL OFF ACRYLIC POUR TO PREPARE FOR NAKED FUSION RESIN COAT

How do I remove silicone oil off acrylic pour to prepare for resin?

The 1st very important factor is to make sure your acrylic pours are completely dry through and through all the layers. Depending upon how thick the paint is, you will want to make sure the underlayer is fully dry and cured. Sometimes that could be in a day and sometimes it may take several days depending on how thick your acrylic pour is poured. Resin reacts to moisture so if there is moisture left on the painting it will not sure properly.

Once your acrylic pour painting is completely dry the next step is to remove any residue of silicone oil or other oils from cell activators or other mediums used.

With silicone oil ( or other oils from cell activators) some people use baby powder or corn starch to remove the oil before applying the resin. Using paper towels let the powder absorb the oil and wipe the powder off well. You can use water to clean either powder but make sure your surface is completely dry before applying the resin. If there is any residue of moisture that will affect the curing process of the resin and adhesion to the surface.

Here’s more detail on the process.

1 .Soak up the oil from the surface of your painting with an absorbent powder. Liberally sprinkle the powder over the painting. Use light circular motions to rub the powder all over the surface and the sides of the painting to absorb the oil.
2 .The powder may start to clump and get sticky in some areas. That shows that it is working. Add a bit more powder in these areas and keep on rubbing it gently over the surface.
3.Then use a soft cloth to gently brush off all the powder way.
4. Next you can gently clean the surface of the painting with a wet wipe. This removes any remaining powder and oil.
5. Use a clean soft cloth to dry the painting. Hold it up to the light and look at it carefully. If you can still see any oil, repeat steps.
6. You can repeat this process as needed, make sure the surface is fully dry before applying your resin coat

FOR DEEPER CASTING PROJECTS: HOW TO COMBINE LAYERS OF DEEP POUR RESIN WITH LAYERS OF THE ARTIST’S RESIN

To pour a 1/4 inch coat of The Artist’s Resin you use the Deep Pour Resin: The Deep Pour Resin takes quite a bit longer to cure depending on how deep you are pouring. You can pour a 1/4 inch flood coat of Artist’s Resin without sanding the Deep Pour if you pour when it is slightly firm but still tacky enough and already done with the gel/heat phase of curing. With Deep Pour there isn’t an exact time frame because temperature and volume affect the cure time.

The General Rule with both resins or when layering the 2 different resins is you can repour layers when the heat generating phase of the curing is done which is when it is still tacky but firm. Then you will achieve the chemical bond. The other thing to keep in mind, if you are planning to use a spreader to move the resin on this layer you would have to be careful not to disturb the Deep Pour layer if it is still very tacky. If you keep the spreader high on the surface and don’t make contact with the Deep Pour layer it should be fine. If you prefer to wait until it is cured hard then you will need to lightly sand then clean with acetone before pouring the Artist’s Resin coat. If you wanted to do the base with The Artist’s Resin and Deep Pour layer afterwards the same instructions would apply. The same instructions would also apply if you were casting in layers and wanted to mix different layers of each resin to embed objects or get color layered effects.

TIPPS FOR COLD

TIPS FOR COLD TEMPERATURES AND YOUR RESIN IN THE WINTER

With the cold temperatures across the USA this winter there is a chance of your resin being exposed to cold temperatures in transit or during delivery. If your resin gets thick or cloudy from the cold, all you need to do is warm the bottle in a warm water bath until the resin has warmed and stir back to a perfect consistency. It may take longer than a normal water bath to reach a good temperature. The resin will return to perfect consistency and condition when it is warmed back up and it will be ready for use. This tip applies to both Deep Pour and the Artist’s Resin.